If you have acne-prone skin, you've probably already heard that salicylic—or noticed it on the labels of most breakout-fighting cleansers and spot treatments. But, if this is your first rodeo with pimples, or you're simply interested in learning more about salicylic acid, we can safely say there's an exhaustive amount of research to support the powerhouse ingredient as one of the best acne treatments.
Although skin care is a complicated and personal topic, there's no one-size-fits-all solution when it comes to treating skin concerns—whether you're looking for products to tackle back acne or shampoos for scalp acne. To understand if salicylic acid will work for your skin, it's best to get all the intel and feel what fits. We took all our questions about the hero ingredient straight to leading dermatologists Ellen Marmur, MD, and Adarsh Vijay Mudgil, MD,
Keep reading to find out what makes salicylic acid so impressive and how it contributes to clear skin.
Meet the Expert
- Ellen Marmur, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Marmur Medical and MMSkincare in New York City.
- Adarsh Vijay Mudgil, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based at Mudgil Dermatology in New York City.
What Is Salicylic Acid?
Salicylic acid, an ingredient extracted from willow tree bark, is one type of chemical exfoliant called beta-hydroxy acid (aka BHA). Before explaining exactly how salicylic works, here's a quick refresher on how breakouts form: When bacteria, debris, sebum, and dead skin cells mix together, a clog forms inside your pores. Unlike the chemical exfoliants called alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), which are water-soluble and ideal for surface exfoliation, salicylic is oil-soluble, which makes it capable of cutting through oil and exfoliating deep within your pores to remove blockages.
Salicylic Acid
Type of ingredient: Exfoliant
Main benefits: Sloughs off dead skin, removes excess oil, and reduces comedonal acne, such as whiteheads, and blackheads.
Who should use it: In general, those who have oily skin and are looking to treat superficial acne, like whiteheads, blackheads, and small red pimples, according to Mudgil.
How often can you use it: Marmur says salicylicacidshould be used in moderation until you know your skin can handle it without irritation. If your skin tolerates it, you can increase the frequency to twice a day, unless you know you'll be getting direct sun exposure, then it should only be applied at night.
Works well with: Marmur recommends using the acne ingredient along with other topicals that soothe the skin, like Canadian willow herb, and calm any irritation that the salicylicacidcould potentially cause.
Don't use with: Although salicylic acid can be combined with other exfoliating ingredients, Mudgil says that in order to avoid irritation, it's best to stick to only one exfoliant at a time.
Marmur explains it further: "Itworksby increasing the amount of moisture in the skin and dissolving the substance that causes the skin cells to stick together. Thismakesit easier to shed the skin cells." It now makes sense why the ingredient is a longtime favorite for those with oily, acne-prone skin, right?
What Products Are Formulated With It?
You might be most familiar with salicylic acid as an acne spot treatment, but the ingredient is also found in many other forms, like cleansers, toners, serums, and peels, which can all be beneficial to the skin in their own right. "Each vehicle usessalicylicacidin its own special way and is targeted for certain use in specific people, depending on their skin issues," Marmur explains. The caveat is that some cleansers, peels, and toners can be too harsh, according to Marmur, and should be avoided.
Benefits of Salicylic Acid
Thanks to its unique properties, salicylic acid is used to treat a range of skin conditions outside of acne, from warts to dandruff. Here's a breakdown of exactly how salicylic acid works to benefit the skin:
- Exfoliates dead skin: Marmur points out that salicylic acid is a keratolytic, and as such, itencourages cellular turnover and helps toslough off dead skin cells, which in turn can improve skin dullness and texture.
- Softens the contents of clogged pores: The oil-soluble ingredient is able to penetrate the pores, loosen the "glue" that causes the skin cells to stick together, and remove the contents of clogged pores that lead to superficial acne, like whiteheads, blackheads, and small red pimples.
- Removes excess oil: Marmur says that because salicylicacidis oil-soluble, it can penetrate beneath the skin’s surface to clean out excess sebum from the pores and reduce oiliness. This can, in turn, also lead to an improvement in the appearance of pores.
- Prevents whiteheads and blackheads: Marmur explains that since salicylic acid targets whiteheads and blackheads directly, it prevents them from returning to the surface level of your skin.
- Combats acne: Because it is lipophilic, salicylic acid can penetrate deep into pores to prevent acne from forming in the future.
- Minimizes pores: As an astringent product, salicylic acid can tighten the skin, thereby reducing the appearance of pores.
- Available over-the-counter: Unlike some top-ranking skincare ingredients such as tretinoin, salicylic acid products are available in most beauty retailers and drugstores.
- Reduces inflammation: As Marmur points out, salicylic acid belongs to the same class of drugs as aspirin (salicylates). Because of salicylic acid's anti-inflammatory properties, it helps to address irritation and redness related to breakouts.
Salicylic Acid vs. Glycolic Acid
Not all acids are the same. This is precisely the case with skincare powerhouses salicylic acid and glycolic acid. When it comes to these two often confused actives, the difference is all in the hydroxyl group. As we previously mentioned, salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid. Glycolic acid, on the other hand, is an alpha-hydroxy acid. Each has a different way of addressing similar skincare concerns like sun damage, hyperpigmentation, blemishes, and clogged pores. Glycolic acid works on the surface of the skin, sloughing away layers of dead skin cells to produce a more even, glowing complexion and reducing the risk of pores getting clogged by that very same debris. Salicylic acid penetrates deep into the skin so it can exfoliate and eradicate buildup from within the cell. The two can complement each other in certain concentrations.
Salicylic Acid vs. Benzoyl Peroxide
One ingredient that rivals salicylic acid's popularity in the OTC acne treatment department is benzoyl peroxide. But this ingredient takes a different approach when targeting breakouts. While salicylic acid removes pore blockage, benzoyl peroxide is an antibacterial ingredient that kills the acne-causing bacteria inside the pores. Infamous for bleaching pillowcases and towels, benzoyl peroxide is also less suitable for sensitive skin than salicylic acid, as its drying properties can lead to flakiness and irritation.
Potential Side Effects of Salicylic Acid
According to Mudgil, salicylicacidis best suited for those with oily skin and superficial acne. For those with dry, eczema-prone, or sensitive skin, the drying ingredient could be too harsh and lead to irritation.
Marmur says that some of the most common side effects ofsalicylicacidinclude dry, burning, and overall irritated skin in the areas of application but adds that these side effects are more common at the start of treatment and should not continue. "If they continue or get worse, you should definitely contact your board-certified dermatologist to let them know how your skin is reacting."
She adds that salicylic acid can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight and cause sunburn easily. Although you should always protect your skin from the sun, it's especially important when using salicylic acid to limit your sun exposure as much as possible and alwaysuse and reapply sunscreen.
How to Use It
The recommended concentration of a salicylic acid product varies from person to person and should be discussed with a dermatologist, and the same applies to the frequency of use. In general, Marmur recommends using salicylic acid in moderation until you know your skin can tolerate it. Start applying it every few days, and note how your skin reacts after each application. "The key is to listen to your skin," Mudgil advises. "If it's getting irritated, you'll need to take a day or two off and perhaps be a bit more vigilant with moisturizing." As far as the amount used, Marmur stresses the importance of following the direction of your doctor. "Don’t do more or less, and don’t use it for longer than recommended," Marmur says. "Apply just enoughsalicylicacidto cover the affected area and rub it into the skin gently."
Although salicylic acid is a common ingredient that's easily accessible and found at the drugstore, many variables are at play when it comes to using the acne-fighting ingredient to treat breakouts, so it should still be approached with caution. According to Mudgil, the use of salicylic acid depends on one's skin type, the underlying indication, and how severe the acne is. If you have oily skin and you're looking for a budget-friendly option, both Marmur and Mudgil recommend Neutrogena's Oil-Free Acne Wash, which uses 2 percent salicylic acid to wash away dead skin cells. Dealing with back acne? This face wash can also be a cleanser for pesky body breakouts. If texture is your main skin concern, Marmur suggests CeraVe's SA Lotion for Rough & Bumpy Skin, which also contains ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide. "The cream is salicylic acid-based and can aid in hydration for dehydrated skin," Marmur says. "It can also improve the texture of your skin."
Final Takeaway
While salicylic acid is a reliable option for treating superficial acne, Mudgil says prescription medications, like oral treatments, may be necessary for targeting cystic acne, so it's best to have a derm evaluate your skin to decide which treatment would be most effective. "Incorporating salicylic acid isn't a 'one size fits all' situation," Mudgil says."It's best to work with your dermatologist to optimize your regimen."
FAQ
Is it okay to use salicylic acid every day?
While it is okay to use salicylic acid every day, it could cause irritation. Many dermatologists recommend using the acid in moderation, beginning by applying it three times a week and working up from there.
Can salicylic acid dry the skin out?
Yes, which is why it's best to start in moderation and combine it with a more moisturizing product, like a cream.
Can too much salicylic acid be a problem?
If you have a persistent breakout that doesn't clear up even when using salicylic acid, it's possible the ingredient could be contributing to the problem. Talk to a dermatologist if the problem persists.
