Ruth Reichl’s Smart Tip for Better Pumpkin Pie (2024)

Emma Christensen

Emma Christensen

Emma is a former editor for The Kitchn and a graduate of the Cambridge School for Culinary Arts. She is the author of True Brews and Brew Better Beer. Check out her website for more cooking stories

published Nov 17, 2015

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Ruth Reichl’s Smart Tip for Better Pumpkin Pie (1)

I thought I knew pumpkin pie — I mean, you can’t really beat the classic — and then Ruth Reichl comes along and drops this bombshell on me, and now I feel like I’ve been lying to myself about the gloriousness of my pies for years. I would be disheartened if I weren’t so dang excited to bake more pie this Thanksgiving. Enough teasing — here’s what Ruth Reichl has to say on the subject of pumpkin pie.

Ruth Reichl’s Tip: Roast Your Pumpkin Purée

Spread your canned pumpkin purée on a baking sheet and roast it in a 400°F oven for a few minutes before carrying on with your pie recipe.

Why does she do this? Not only does roasting deepen the flavor of the pumpkin, but it bakes off some of the moisture in the purée, ensuring a more custard-like pie with less risk of a soggy crust.

It’s such a little thing — an “oh, by the way” tip that Ruth tosses to the reader between other stories in her book My Kitchen Year — but to me, it’s a total game-changer.

What Happened When I Tried It

I gave this tip a test run the other day and roasted a can of pumpkin purée for about 15 minutes. This was just long enough that the edges started to look a little dried out and I started to see a hint of toasty color on some of the ridges and peaks in the purée. The flavor after roasting had none of the raw squash flavor of purée straight from the can; it’s actually slightly richer and more buttery.

I wondered if adding sugar and spices would amp up the caramelized and roasted flavor even more, so I also experimented with roasting both plain purée and purée with sugar and spices already mixed in. After roasting, I added the sugar and spices to the plain purée and then tasted the two side-by-side. The first version — with sugar added after roasting — was good, but had an intense sugary sweetness; I tasted the sugar first and the pumpkin second. By contrast, I felt that the second version — the one roasted with the sugar already mixed in — seemed richer, more balanced, and more fully infused with spice flavor. I’ll be sticking with that second version on Thanksgiving.

I gleaned so very many good little tips from Reichl’s My Kitchen Year, but this one definitely takes first place. The difference between regular pie and a pie made with roasted purée is subtle, but I think it turns just a regular pumpkin pie into one that has everyone asking for the recipe.

Ruth Reichl’s Smart Tip for Better Pumpkin Pie (2024)

FAQs

Ruth Reichl’s Smart Tip for Better Pumpkin Pie? ›

Ruth Reichl's Tip: Roast Your Pumpkin Purée

Does the toothpick test work for pumpkin pie? ›

You should also see that the filling has darkened and the texture of the pie should be a bit puffed up from when you put it in the oven. If you're still uncertain, stick a knife (or a toothpick) in the center and see if it comes out clean. You can also stick in an instant-read thermometer in the middle.

How much should a pumpkin pie juggle? ›

The outer edges of the pie should be firm while the center will be a little jiggly, but not sloshy or unsteady. As the old adage goes, "It needs to jiggle like Jell-O but not wiggle like a wave." If the entire pie is wobbly, continue baking. Use a piecrust shield if it's browning too fast.

What to add to pumpkin to make it taste better? ›

If you really want to go all out, you can even grate whole cinnamon sticks, ginger knobs, nutmeg, cloves, and allspice berries. It's definitely more work, but the intense spice flavors work wonders to enhance the dull flavor of canned pumpkin.

What to do if pumpkin pie won't set? ›

Why Didn't My Pumpkin Pie Set? You're ready to serve your homemade pumpkin pie, but when you try to cut it, it's too runny to get any clean slices. Why this happens: The pie was underbaked, or the oven temperature wasn't high enough. Taking the pie out of the oven prematurely is a very easy mistake to make.

Why is my pumpkin pie taking forever to cook? ›

Baking time varies with the size and depth of the pie pan, as well as the material it's made of (metal, glass, or ceramic). The type of pumpkin used (fresh or canned) and the altitude you're baking at also affect baking time.

Why is my pumpkin pie still jiggly in the middle? ›

for pumpkin pie when the filling still ripples in the center. the pie is underbaked and the filling won't completely set up. when the center of the pie wobble slightly it will continue to bake.

Why is my pumpkin pie falling apart? ›

Not unlike a cheesecake, pumpkin pies have to be slowly cooled or else they might crack. The thermal shock of a pie going from a hot oven to the fridge can rapidly contract the egg proteins and just like overbaking, this will split the filling.

What makes pumpkin pie taste so good? ›

The pie is generally flavored with pumpkin pie spice, a blend that includes cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, and cloves or allspice. The pie is usually prepared with canned pumpkin, but fresh-cooked pumpkin can be used.

How can I enhance my pumpkin flavor? ›

Cook It on the Stove

Briefly cooking your canned pumpkin purée on the stove can help improve both the flavor and texture. This method helps reduce excess moisture, which gives the pumpkin a superior texture. It also releases the natural pumpkin flavor and helps reduce the metallic taste from the can.

Why does my pumpkin pie taste bland? ›

Pumpkin Pie Problem 1: No Pumpkin Taste

Look for pumpkins labeled "sugar pumpkin" or "baking pumpkin." The pumpkins typically used for jack-o'-lanterns are stringy, watery, and bland. If you can't find straight-up pumpkin, kabocha squash or even butternut squash can make a good substitute.

How do I make sure my pumpkin pie doesn't crack? ›

Cooling the pie slowly and gradually in your oven ensures that the top won't crack; it's a trick Saffitz learned from baking holiday pies for years in her parent's home kitchen. “My dad never turns on the heat, so it's always very cold in their kitchen,” she says.

How to prevent pumpkin pie filling from pulling away from crust? ›

Answer: A spokesperson for Libby's canned pumpkin says that the filling's shrinking away from the crust can be caused by the oven temperature being a little too high or the baking time a little too long. For best results, be certain the pie is baked at the recommended temperature in the center of the oven.

How do you know if the bottom of a pie is done? ›

An apple pie is done when the top and bottom crusts are uniformly golden (remember that glass pie plate—it's more important now than ever) and the juices bubble up slowly and thickly through the vent holes.

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